should be full at the top and taper downward, allowing enough room for 1/2 inch of the shirtsleeve cuff to fall beneath it. That 1/2 inch should also match the amount of fabric shown between the collar of the shirt and the collar of the jacket.
The jacket should be long enough to cover the curve of a man’s bottom, but short enough to extend his leg. In relation to his arms, the bottom of the jacket should line up with the thumb knuckle when the hand is in a relaxed position, at a man’s side, unless he has long or short arms. The best determination is to measure from the collar seam to the floor and divide by two.
“The collar is like the frame for a painting,” offers Flusser. “It should counterbalance the facial structure.” This shirt provides a spread collar, which is in better proportion to Aliatu’s head and face.
The chest pocket on a jacket is constructed to hold a handkerchief. It should be folded so its points move outward, which follow the lines of the lapel. Says Flusser: “It’s the most inexpensive way to make any suit look more expensive.”
Cuffs should be 15/8 inches, which give weight to the bottom of the pant, creating a more balanced transition from the trouser to the shoe.