Black kinfolk may not be immediately visible across San Antonio’s landscape, but they are present. A closer look reveals a deep history, a growing cultural footprint, and an ongoing fight for recognition.
Arriving at the airport, it may not be immediately apparent that Black residents are present. The city’s large Hispanic and white populations can leave some feeling out of place and push them to search elsewhere for community. However, visitors should begin looking beyond the city’s most well-known attractions, including the Alamo, the River Walk, and the Tower of the Americas.
History
In the shadows of the Alamo, Black Texans host Black history tours that educate visitors about St. Paul Historic Square, tucked beside The Aiden Hotel, which serves as a meeting place to kick off the experience. Few would guess that a quiet contemporary lodging sits amid a deep legacy of Black perseverance. The lives and legacies of San Antonio natives Myra Davis Hemings, Artemesia Bowden, and Hattie Briscoe are revealed through art and storytelling led by tour guide Aundar Ma’at. The tours also pay homage to one of the region’s earliest Black settlements through murals, historic markers, and a modest informational center. Deeper on the east side, the Bexar County Buffalo Soldier Association relays the history of the Black cavalry and infantry soldiers formed after the Civil War.
Art
Museum curator Maria Williams owns the Eye of the Beholder Black Art Gallery. A lover of the arts, Williams grew dismayed after realizing that Black representation was limited within the city’s cultural landscape. Her discovery led her to pursue the Art of Four Initiative, which sought out grants for artists that were going largely unused by local creatives. Williams successfully secured funding and transitioned from an event planner to a curator. Eye of the Beholder is now a central destination for visitors seeking Black art and cultural context in the city.
Black San Antonio residents are still working out the kinks in telling their own story. As such, the San Antonio African American Community Archive and Museum (SAAACAM) seeks to tell the expansive story of Black folks from their time in then Mexico to the evolution of the community in the Republic of Texas.
Cuisine
Beyond history and art, what is a trip without food? While San Antonio has its flaws and a questionable history, its food scene hosts premier Black chefs. Freight Fried Chicken, owned by Chef Nicola Blaque, is beyond satisfying. The restaurant is located at The Pearl, a shopping, food, and entertainment hub built into the bones of a brewery, along with another culinary gem. Michelin Star-winning Nicosi Dessert Bar is only a stone’s throw away. With a no-phone policy and blacked-out windows, the Nicosi Dessert Bar takes its environment, its desserts, and customer experience to the next level.
For those looking for a taste of down-home cuisine and R&B, Tryst Kitchen+Cocktails serves up traditional southern delicacies, including gumbo, oxtail, shrimp po’ boys, and a honey cornbread to write home about. For a delicious brunch, Box Street, located a short walk from the Tower of America, does breakfast with a Hispanic twist. To engage with Texas’s famous fare, a Texas pitmaster mans Pinkerton’s BBQ, and the succulent meat proves the mastery.
San Antonio is beautiful. The many murals that adorn the city speak to a spirit of artistry and inclusion. The Martin Luther King Jr. March, said to be the largest MLK commemorative march in the U.S., speaks to the region’s desire to embrace differences and cohabitate in peace. On a regular day, you may have to be intentional about interacting with the city’s Black folk; on that day, you can find them gathered joyfully in community with their diverse neighbors. The beauty of Blackness shines bright in San Antonio. Look closely, you’ll see it there, and it’s worth searching for.
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