Black Cosmetic Chemist Creates New Sunscreen That Leaves No White Cast On Dark Skin

AJ Addae changed the shape of zinc oxide particles to avoid the white cast.

A Black cosmetic chemist has developed a new product, eliminating a big issue for sunscreen wearers with dark skin.

While mineral sunscreens are a popular option for those wanting immediate protection from the sun with safer ingredients, one huge demographic has often shied away from the product. A signature ingredient of most mineral sunscreens, zinc oxide, often produces an unflattering white cast on those with dark skin tones, prompting many to just stick with the chemical versions.

However, AJ Addae, who studies chemical biology at UCLA, has created a new solution to the long-standing problem. Having dark skin herself, this passion stems from a personal mission to make mineral sunscreen more inclusive.

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“The best sunscreen is one that you’ll wear, and that’s really all where my motivation is for this,” she said to ABC7.

To develop the formula, she joined forces with fellow UCLA scientist, Dr. Paul S. Weiss at the Jonsson Comprehensive Cancer Center, to break down why some sunscreens leave such a ghostly mark.

“We took apart conventional sunscreens that use zinc oxide and learned that the white cast comes from agglomeration of these round, somewhat irregular particles of zinc oxide,” explained Weiss.

To combat this problem, Addae and Weiss decided to make the zinc oxide particles take on a different shape. The scientists decided to form the zinc oxide into tetrapods, allowing the particles to stand apart while providing an even layer on the skin. This new formulation also eliminated the clumping-induced white cast.

“It forms these networks, really nice, sustained networks of zinc oxide that disperse really well and smoothly and evenly on the skin,” said the Black chemist.

Not only did the reinvention work, but it still provided similar levels of UV-protection found in already established sunscreen products. Plus, this development did not need a solvent, used to dissolve the UV filters, making it better for the environment as well.

For her overarching achievement in innovative entrepreneurship, Addae also won $100k from Pharrell Williams’ Black Ambition Prize for Sula Labs, as detailed by UCLA. The company, founded by Addae, tests cosmetic products for brands at major retailers like Sephora and Ulta.

As a groundbreaking cosmetic chemist and entrepreneur, Addae has dedicated her work and platform to boosting diversity in beauty and skincare. She hopes for the money to further her mission, that make personal care fit for everyone.

“While the prize money is incredible, the win is a symbol that our hard work to close inclusivity gaps in cosmetics and personal care through science has a significant impact and scale,” Addae said upon winning the Prize in November.

Now, with her no-white cast sunscreen to hit the markets soon, she has provided another avenue for Black people of all skin tones to feel included in the latest products.